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"Untold Love Story": Queen Rudabai tricked Mahmud Begada by agreeing to marriage only after the completion of the Adalaj Stepwell, a cherished project started by her late husband, King Veer Singh, and then sacrificed her life to protect its sanctity

Adalaj's beauty, story and architecture far exceeds that of Taj Mahal The famous Adalaj Ni Vaav or the Adalaj Stepwell was built by Queen Rudabai, wife of the Chief Vaghela.
 |  Satyaagrah  |  Hindu
Adalaj Stepwell, Gujarat - epitomizes the sacrifice of Queen Rudabai
Adalaj Stepwell, Gujarat - epitomizes the sacrifice of Queen Rudabai

Stepwells are a significant aspect of the historical architecture in the arid and semi-arid regions of India, prominently in Gujarat and Rajasthan. Locally known as 'Vav' in Gujarat and 'Baoli' in Rajasthan, these structures are not only functional for water storage but also serve as stunning examples of regional architecture. It's fascinating to note that around 200 stepwells still exist in Gujarat alone. This fact gives us a glimpse into their prevalence in the past. Historically, the concept of stepwells is ancient, with the earliest forms like cylindrical wells being constructed during the Indus Valley Civilization at places such as Mohanjodaro.

Taking a 20-kilometer journey away from Ahmedabad leads to Adalaj, a village that houses a true architectural gem. Built in the year 1499, the stepwell in Adalaj is not just a water reservoir; it is a place for spiritual engagement and a sanctuary for both travelers and locals. This structure is renowned for its elaborate five-tiered design, which captures the eyes and hearts of all who visit.

The first thing that strikes you upon entering the Adalaj Stepwell is its breathtaking beauty. This stepwell stands out from others due to its exquisite blend of Indo-Islamic architectural styles, making it a unique cultural treasure. The story of its origin adds a layer of mystique and romance to the structure. It encompasses themes of love and conflict, fidelity and deception, weaving a narrative that is as captivating as the stepwell itself. This historical edifice is not just a place of utility but a monument of love, carved out of both devotion and intrigue.

Located near Gandhinagar, the capital city of Gujarat, Adalaj is a quaint town that boasts a rich historical artifact, the Adalaj Stepwell. Built in the 15th century, this stepwell was an important halting point on a medieval trade route, frequented by travelers and traders. Its remarkable architecture has stood the test of time, making it a focal point for tourists and historians alike.

The Adalaj Stepwell, also known as Rani Rudabai Stepwell, is intertwined with the legacy of Rani Rudabai, the revered queen of the erstwhile Dandai Desh. This connection has earned the structure a special place in the cultural history of the region, with many referring to it affectionately as Rani Rudabai ni Vav.

Stepwells like Adalaj were ingeniously designed to collect and store rainwater, providing relief during the harsh, dry summers. During the ancient and medieval periods, these structures were strategically placed along burgeoning trade routes to support the thriving trade ecosystem. They were not only water reservoirs but also social hubs, offering respite to weary travelers. In Gujarat alone, more than 140 such stepwells still exist, underscoring their historical and architectural significance. Among these, Adalaj Stepwell is distinguished as one of the most celebrated, drawing admiration for both its utility and beauty.

In the local language, the Adalaj Stepwell is fondly called 'Adalaj ni Vav,' where 'Vav' means stepwell in Gujarati. This term underscores the stepwell's deep roots in the local culture. Hindi speakers in the area refer to it as 'Adalaj ki Vav' or simply 'Adalaj Vav,' highlighting its importance across different linguistic communities. The name resonates with the locals and visitors, marking the stepwell as a landmark of enduring legacy and architectural marvel.

History of Adalaj Stepwell: The Bravery of Queen Rudabai

The Adalaj Stepwell, located in the land historically known as Dandai Desh, is closely linked to the poignant story of Queen Rudabai. This region, ruled by Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty in the 15th century, struggled with severe water shortages, prompting the king to commence the construction of a substantial stepwell to secure a reliable water source for his people.

However, the kingdom's stability was shattered when Mahmud Begada invaded, leading to the death of Rana Veer Singh. Faced with her husband's death and the imminent threat of conquest, Queen Rudabai was prepared to commit Jauhar. This act, often misunderstood, was a desperate measure taken by women to protect their honor from invading forces known for their brutal treatment of women, including acts of violence against the deceased.

Yet, in the face of such adversity, Queen Rudabai's resolve shone through. When Begada, struck by her beauty, proposed marriage, she saw a strategic opportunity to secure the welfare of her people by ensuring the completion of the stepwell. She agreed to his proposal on the condition that he finish the stepwell first, leveraging her position to continue her late husband's legacy. Begada, eager to win her over, completed the stepwell swiftly.

Despite fulfilling her part of the agreement, Queen Rudabai had no intention of marrying her adversary. Her heart remained loyal to her late husband and her kingdom. Once the stepwell was completed, she chose a tragic yet courageous end, choosing to sacrifice herself by jumping into the stepwell. Aware of the potential consequences of her death, she arranged for Hindu saints to perform rituals to prevent the stepwell from becoming cursed.

Queen Rudabai's story is not just one of tragedy but also of heroic resistance and immense courage under dire circumstances. Her actions ensured that the stepwell would serve as a lasting testament to her love for her people and her king, safeguarding a vital resource and preserving her dignity in the annals of history.

The tale of Adalaj Stepwell is enriched with many narratives, one of which is preserved in the scriptures of the Swaminarayan sect, dating back 200 years. According to this tradition, before her tragic death, Rani Rudabai, also known as Rani Roopba, made a profound request. She asked religious saints to bathe in the waters of the stepwell. Her belief was that the sanctity of these saints would purify the water, cleansing her of her sins and sanctifying the structure that had come to symbolize her sacrifice.

This story highlights the depth of Rani Rudabai's spiritual considerations and her thoughtful actions even in her final moments. Her foresight in involving religious figures not only aimed to purify the stepwell but also ensured that it remained a blessed site for future generations.

The cunning and resolve of Rani Rudabai were pivotal in the creation of the Adalaj Stepwell. Her strategic acumen under duress ensured the completion of this vital water resource for her people. Today, she is commemorated not only for her sacrifice but also as a benefactor who secured a lifeline for her kingdom. Adalaj Stepwell, or Adalaj ni Vav, stands as a monument to her memory and to the enduring spirit of her leadership.

Moreover, adjacent to the stepwell lie the graves of the six masons who constructed this architectural marvel. Following the completion of the stepwell, Begda, overwhelmed by the structure's beauty and uniqueness, inquired if the masons could replicate their work elsewhere. When they affirmed they could, Begda, determined to preserve the uniqueness of Adalaj Stepwell, chose to execute them. This harsh decision was driven by his desire to ensure that no other stepwell could rival the one built under his auspices, thereby cementing its place as a singular masterpiece in architectural history.

Through these narratives, the Adalaj Stepwell stands not just as a piece of heritage architecture but as a profound testament to human courage, sacrifice, and the complex interplay of power and artistry in history.

Sanskrit Inscription of Adalaj Stepwell

At the first floor of Adalaj Ni Vav, visitors encounter a significant piece of historical documentation—an ancient Sanskrit inscription etched into a marble slab. This inscription serves as a crucial link to the stepwell's past, detailing both its history and construction in clear terms.

The inscription eloquently chronicles a timeline and lineage that provides insight into the origins of this architectural wonder. It reads:

"Samvat 1555 (1498 AD), month of Magha, Mahmud Padshah being king.

"Salutation to Vinayaka (Ganesha) to whose race belonged King Mokala, chief of the country of Dandahi. From him was born Karna, Mahipa and Virsinh and Naisha were the sons of Mahipa. Virsinh’s queen, whose name is Rooda, has constructed this well.

"It is dedicated at this time – when the sun is in the north, the month is Magha, the bright half (Shukla Paksha), the 5th day, the day of the week, Wednesday, the lunar mansion – Uttara, Karana-Bava, the yoga – Siddhi."

This inscription not only specifies the exact astronomical and calendrical date of the stepwell’s dedication but also connects it to notable historical figures, thereby enriching our understanding of its origins and cultural significance. The mention of Rooda, or Rudabai, confirms her pivotal role in the construction of the stepwell, aligning with the legends and stories passed down through generations.

The detailing of the inscription's content illustrates the importance of celestial alignments and religious rituals in the architectural practices of the time. It also highlights the reverence for deities such as Ganesha, underlining the spiritual dimensions that complement the stepwell’s practical utility.

The presence of this inscription at Adalaj Ni Vav is a testament to the craftsmanship and thoughtful planning that went into the construction of the stepwell. It not only served a functional purpose but was also a spiritual offering, a mark of devotion from a queen to her people and her predecessors. This historical marker invites modern visitors to step back in time and appreciate the intricate connection between India’s royal history, astronomy, and architectural expertise.

Adalaj Stepwell Architecture

Adalaj Stepwell is renowned for its exceptional architecture, representing one of the finest examples of stepwell construction in western India. The stepwell is adorned with intricate carvings that vividly showcase the Solanki architectural style. This style first emerged as a prominent architectural form for temples in western India during the 11th century. However, with the ascendancy of Islamic architecture in the 14th century, the prevalence of Solanki architecture began to wane. Remarkably, Adalaj Stepwell features a harmonious integration of Solanki architecture with the 15th-century Indo-Islamic architectural influences, presenting a unique cultural synthesis that is both historical and artistic.

Solanki Architectural Brilliance

Constructed from sandstone, the Adalaj Stepwell is a brilliant example of Solanki architecture, renowned for its detailed and elaborate carvings. The stepwell extends five stories underground and is shaped octagonally at its top, supported by a multitude of intricately carved pillars. This design not only adds to the aesthetic appeal but also provides ample space for people to gather, reflecting the structure's role as a social hub in its heyday.

The stepwell was strategically designed to reach deep into the ground, tapping into the groundwater levels that could vary with the seasonal rainfall, thus ensuring a consistent water supply throughout the year. Notable too are the air and light vents found in the ceilings of various floors, which manifest as large openings, crucial for ventilation and natural light.

From the uppermost story, three staircases descend to the well's water level, a design considered unique to this structure. These staircases, aligned along a north-south axis, with the entrance facing south, provide access from the south, west, and east directions. At the northern side, where the staircases converge, there is a landing that hosts four small rooms. Each room features oriel windows that are supported by exquisitely carved brackets, adding to the architectural beauty and the intricate detailing that characterizes the entire stepwell.

Through its design, the Adalaj Stepwell not only served a functional purpose but also stood as a testament to the architectural ingenuity and artistic prowess of its creators, blending two distinct architectural styles into a cohesive and stunning historical monument.

Structural and Artistic Details of Adalaj Stepwell

The structural design of Adalaj Stepwell is a classic example of traditional Indian architecture, employing a trabeate system with horizontal beams and lintels. At the well's base, there is a square stepped floor, designed in the shape of a funnel that narrows down to a circular well at the bottom. This geometric precision not only aids in water collection but also adds an aesthetic dimension to the structure. Columns, beams, walls, and arched openings gracefully spiral upward from this base, culminating in a vertical space that opens up to the sky. This open top allows natural light to flood the interior, highlighting the intricate carvings and craftsmanship. The four corners of the square base are reinforced with stone beams set at a 45-degree angle, enhancing both the stability and the visual impact of the design.

The stepwell's decoration seamlessly integrates motifs of flowers and architectural graphics with religious symbols, featuring carvings of Hindu and Jain deities at various levels. This melding of art and spirituality is further exemplified in the dominant carvings of elephants on the upper floors, each elephant measuring 3 inches (76 mm) and uniquely designed. The walls of the stepwell depict daily scenes from the lives of women, such as churning buttermilk and adorning themselves, as well as cultural performances by dancers and musicians, with the king overseeing these activities.

One of the most captivating artistic features inside the well is a sculpture carved from a single block of stone, representing the Ami Khumbor (the symbolic pot of the water of life) and the Kalp Vriksha (the tree of life). Additionally, a fresco depicting the navagraha, or the nine planets, adds a celestial element to the space, drawing villagers to the stepwell for worship during marriage ceremonies and other rituals.

The interior of Adalaj Stepwell is notably cooler than the external environment, with temperatures about five degrees lower than the hot summer temperatures outside. This natural cooling effect made the stepwell a popular gathering place for women, who came not only to fetch water but also to enjoy the cooler climate, worship, and socialize. The stepwell's design and its role as a social and spiritual hub illustrate its dual function as both a utilitarian structure and a place of beauty and community engagement, resembling a subterranean palace with its rich sculptures and elaborate decorations.

Islamic Artistry at Adalaj Stepwell

At Adalaj Stepwell, several glimpses of Islamic architecture are evident, existing alongside the ancient Indian Solanki architecture. This combination features exquisite floral patterns in Islamic style, which are integrated with Indian artistic elements, forming a remarkable example of Indo-Islamic architecture in the Gujarat region.

The stepwell includes four small rooms at the landing level, each positioned at the four corners and featuring oriel windows. The brackets supporting these windows showcase elegant Islamic carvings, which are believed to have been executed during Mahmud Begada's era. These carvings are a clear indication of the Islamic influence on the structure’s design.

Additionally, the walls of Adalaj Stepwell are adorned with carvings that depict women engaged in everyday activities, such as churning buttermilk and adorning themselves. These scenes are complemented by depictions of dancers and musicians performing, with a king overseeing all these activities, adding a cultural richness that encapsulates the daily and royal life of the time.

The stepwell’s location along the trade routes of what is now the Gandhinagar region influenced Rana Veer Singh’s decision to create a place where traders could rest and relax. His untimely demise during the construction brought the project to a standstill until Rani Rudabai cunningly negotiated with Mahmud Begada to complete the unfinished work. This strategic intervention by Rani Rudabai not only ensured the completion of the stepwell but also preserved the intricate blend of Islamic and Solanki architectural styles that define this historic structure.

The construction of Adalaj Stepwell occurred in two distinct phases, each under different cultural influences, which allowed for a unique architectural synthesis. The Islamic floral graphics seamlessly blended with the Solanki-style graphics of Hindu gods and goddesses, resulting in a mixed architectural marvel. This fusion has made Adalaj Stepwell one of the finest examples of Indo-Islamic architecture, showcasing how two divergent styles can coalesce to create something truly spectacular.

Tourist Information for Adalaj Stepwell

For those interested in experiencing this historical site firsthand, Rani Rudabai Stepwell, also known as Adalaj ni Vav, welcomes visitors without any entry fee. The stepwell is open to tourists and history enthusiasts from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM daily, throughout the week. This accessibility ensures that everyone has the opportunity to explore its architectural beauty and historical significance at their convenience.

Visitors to the stepwell can bring cameras and mobile phones, as there are no restrictions on photography or videography. This allows tourists to capture the intricate carvings and the overall beauty of the stepwell, preserving their visit in photos and videos.

Located near major urban centers, Adalaj Stepwell is conveniently situated just 5 kilometers from Gandhinagar, the capital city of Gujarat. Additionally, it is only 11 kilometers away from Ahmedabad city via road, making it an easy travel destination for both local and international visitors. This proximity to major cities enhances its appeal as a cultural and historical site, easily accessible for a day trip or even a brief visit.

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