The incredible resurgence of Karnataka’s Udupi sarees, an exquisite representation of India's 4,500-year-old weaving tradition, paints an optimistic picture. After a period of declining production due to market shifts in recent years, these exceptional sarees are experiencing a vibrant revival, thanks to the determined efforts of various stakeholders.

Udupi sarees, traditionally woven on the Malabar frame loom—a technique brought to India by Germany’s Basel Mission—are created using single-ply combed cotton yarns of 40, 60, and 80-count. They stand as a testament to the intricacy of the weavers' craft. However, the advent of power looms and synthetic materials in the 1980s led to a significant dip in their production, as these modern variants began to command the market.

Today, the landscape is changing, with non-governmental organizations playing a key role in breathing new life into this traditional craft. These NGOs are making concerted efforts in Udupi and Dakshina Kannada districts, thereby instilling a renewed sense of hope in the weaver communities and injecting vigor back into the production of Udupi sarees.

Central to the NGOs' strategy is their focus on the younger generation, who they believe can embrace, learn, and carry forward this heritage craft. Thanks to partnerships with the National Rural Livelihood Mission, the Udupi District Primary Weavers’ Services Cooperative Societies, and Padmashali Nekara Prathistana, a training program for 25 individuals has been initiated at Manipal’s Rajathadri district resource center.

The trainees, many of whom are experiencing handloom weaving for the first time, while others are reconnecting with a craft from their past, are expressing burgeoning confidence in their newly-acquired skills. For instance, trainee Manjunath, who is learning to weave Udupi sarees alongside his daughter and daughter-in-law, harbors aspirations of continuing this venerable legacy.

To support this endeavour, trainees receive a monthly stipend of Rs. 10,000, and a further Rs. 2,000 is provided to cover travel expenses. By year-end, Prathistana aims to equip three additional batches of 25 individuals each, potentially bringing the total number of newly-trained weavers to 100 in 2023 alone.

The marketing and sales facet of this revival has seen great support from the Kadike Trust in Karkala. Udupi sarees are now being sold under an appealing brand, featuring the weaver's name and picture on the logo, helping these sarees reclaim their rightful place in the market.

A significant contributing factor in the revival of Udupi sarees has been the acquisition of the Geographical Indication (GI) tag. The Talipady Primary Weavers Service Cooperative Society Ltd, Kinnigoli, led the way by becoming the first user in 2020, with four more societies securing the GI tag in the subsequent year.

All these factors combined highlight a promising future for Udupi sarees, underlining the importance of GI tagging in preserving and promoting traditional crafts, and contributing to the optimistic narrative of their revival.

About Udupi Saree

The art of weaving, which holds an illustrious history stretching back 4500 years in India, once held the esteemed position of being the second-largest employer after agriculture. The textiles produced in the subcontinent were renowned globally and extensively exported. However, the introduction of mechanized cloth production in the mills of Britain following the Industrial Revolution severely undermined the livelihoods of the weavers in the subcontinent. Despite such challenging circumstances, the art of weaving in India and Bangladesh not only persisted but continues to produce a myriad of magnificent handloom products.

One of the few global regions where the craft of handloom weaving endures is the Indian subcontinent, with the Udupi saree epitomizing this resilient tradition. Providing local employment to a large number of skilled individuals, this eco-friendly industry is a beacon of sustainable practice.

Produced within the geographical confines of Dakshina Kannada and Udupi districts, Udupi sarees are primarily woven by artisans from the Padmashali (or Shettigar) community. The sarees, known for their exceptional longevity, are meticulously crafted from fine 40, 60 and 80 count single-ply combed cotton yarns on Malabar frame looms, a technology introduced by the Basel Mission in the nineteenth century.

The aesthetics of Udupi sarees are defined by plain or checkered designs on the body, contrasted with vibrant hues on the pallu and border. Unique techniques are employed in their production, as outlined in the 2016 Geographical Indication (GI) tag documentation. For instance, the pallu sections of the warp are dyed in a darker shade post-warp preparation. Sizing of starch is manually applied to the warp on the loom, while the cut-border technique is employed to weave the checkered design, and motifs are created using the extra weft technique.

Far from being ephemeral, these seemingly delicate sarees endure through generations, serving various purposes over their lifetime. They transition from being coveted garments to bedspreads, gentle baby wraps, and eventually kitchen towels, before finally returning to the soil from whence they came. They embody a negligible carbon footprint, testifying to their sustainability.

Udupi sarees, with over two centuries of rich heritage, enjoyed widespread popularity until around 1980. They are produced at five weavers' societies—Udupi, Shivalli, Brahmavara, Padupanamboor, and Talipady—under the aegis of the Karnataka Handloom Development Corporation (KHDC).

However, post-liberalisation, the production of Udupi sarees dwindled almost to the brink of extinction. A 2017 survey by the Kadike trust revealed that a meager forty-two weavers continued to craft these sarees in the two districts. It was in these dire circumstances that the Kadike Trust initiated the Udupi Saree Revival program in partnership with the Talipady Weavers' Society.

The revival effort gave birth to "Brand Udupi Saree", complete with an appealing logo. Each saree now carries a label featuring the logo and the name and picture of the weaver. By leveraging social media to reach potential customers who appreciate the uniqueness of Udupi sarees, they were able to secure better prices, the benefits of which were passed onto the weavers. Consequently, the weavers now receive both higher remuneration and well-deserved recognition for their craft. Top-performing weavers are acknowledged on special occasions, and their names are put forth for award nominations. As a result of these initiatives, several weavers who had left the profession have returned.

Furthermore, the Trust has been training new weavers, supported by financial aid from the National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development (NABARD). Young individuals are joining the weaving profession for the first time in two decades. The Talipady Society's weaver count has increased from 8 to 34, and among the new weavers, some are in their thirties, having been trained by the Trust. Currently, over 70 weavers ply their trade across the two districts.

Uniqueness of Udupi saree

The Udupi saree is a testament to the masterful weaving traditions of India, employing the finest quality single ply combed cotton yarns for both warp and weft. Predominantly, yarn counts of 40", 60", 80", 100", and 120" are used for both warp and weft, although currently, the counts of 100 and 120 are no longer in use.

Design elements are incorporated into the saree using artificial Zari or cotton yarns. These elements adorn the body, border, and pallu of the saree, brought to life using an extra weft technique. The design usually comprises a plain or checkered pattern on the body of the saree, and a dobby or plain design along the border.

The saree embraces a harmony of light and vibrant colors, with lighter shades employed for the body, and brighter, contrasting hues chosen for the border and pallu.

The body of the saree showcases a simplistic plain weave. The border and pallu feature extra warp patterns, achieved through a dobby mechanism. In certain sarees, small motifs or 'butta' designs are interwoven into the pallu and the body of the saree, either with or without the use of a dobby mechanism. This is accomplished through extra weft techniques.

Another distinguishing feature of the Udupi saree is the addition of 'pearl lines', also known as warp rib weave, on the pallu.

Before the pre-loom processes like bobbin winding begin, the yarns intended for the body of the saree are dyed in the desired color. However, the pallu portion of the saree is dyed in a darker shade after the warp stage using the tie and dye technique. This approach results in a bright, contrasting color for the palli section.

The Udupi saree weavers employ a unique method of sizing, known as 'loom sizing.' The sizing material is applied directly to the yarn during the weaving process, enhancing the quality of the weave and reducing yarn breakage. A special brush with bristles sourced from the 'Fish tail Palm tree' (Caryota urens) is used during this process, contributing to the stiffness and shine of the finished saree.

The saree production involves minimal environmental impact, as natural materials such as firewood and waste products like coconut shells are used for scouring the yarn and preparing the dye bath.

The looms used for weaving Udupi sarees are called Malabar Frame looms. The name originates from the German Basel Mission who introduced these frame looms in the Malabar region. These looms are additionally equipped with dobby and optional jacquard mechanisms for producing extra warp designs on the border and weaving designs with extra warp or weft.

Another significant and unique technique employed in these regions is the cut border technique, which creates a solid border for the saree. This technique involves the use of three shuttles, two for the borders and pallu, and one for the body. The cut border technique is predominantly used to weave checkered sarees, offering bright contrast solid color in the border portion.